The basic concept is simple: shoot one large image and superimpose
a smaller one on top. The problem is being able to clearly distinguish one from
the other, and to not have everything meld together into one big cluttered
mess. I tried various methods to accomplish this and the best way I found was
to simply underexpose the bigger image. However, if both images are shot in the
same light, even underexposing isn’t always enough. It’s for that reason that I
like to shoot on sunny days. By completely shading the larger image, and then,
shooting the smaller image in direct sunlight, I’m able to achieve an even
starker contrast through the different lighting conditions. Coupled with the
overall underexposure, both images are now sufficiently offset from each other
– creating a unique effect, whereby, the smaller image will appear to “float”
in the center of the larger one.
The photo opportunities are endless, but they do require a certain
degree of pre-visualization. For proper composition, it’s important to remember
the exact location of the images within the frame. Personally, I find it easier
to shoot the smaller image first. That way, I’m able to ensure I have an
adequate amount of “dead space” around it. So that the smaller image (and only
the smaller image) is superimposed onto the larger one, everything else
needs to be “masked” out. I use a 3X3 square foot black cloth that’s laid on the
cloth on the ground behind the flower.
When shooting double exposures, the exposure for both images must
be halved in order for the two combined images to add up to the correct
exposure. One of the easiest ways to do this is to set your exposure compensation
to -1. Because the subject is so small and surrounded by so much black, it’s
imperative to meter very carefully by spot metering the flower. This will avoid
overexposing the shot. Set your camera up for a double exposure and take the first shot.
When shooting the larger, underexposed image, move in close and try to fill the frame as much as possible. Spot meter the brightest part, then, underexpose by about 1/3 stop. This should give you just the right amount of underexposure – dark enough so that it doesn’t compete for attention with the smaller image, but not so dark that its features become unrecognizable. Next, block any direct sunlight from falling on it.
If taking pictures of two different flowers, try not to choose two of the same color. The effect will always look more dramatic if the colors of the two images are just as different as the exposures.
This picture-in-picture technique is a great way to introduce something a little different in your flower portraits.
Article Submitted by:
F.M. Kearney is a fine art nature photographer,
specializing in unique floral and landscape images. To see more of his work,
please visit www.starlitecollection.com.
No comments:
Post a Comment