Tip #10: Shoot it
Indoors
As an outdoor nature photographer, I generally prefer to
take my pictures, well...outdoors. However, a recent family emergency prevented
me from getting out into the field as often as I would have liked. To prevent
cobwebs from forming on my equipment, I needed to come up with ways to stay
active. One way was to try shooting photos indoors. Of course, landscapes were
out of the question, but flowers were a different story. I bought some flowers
at a local florist and I was back in business.
Indoor shooting has its advantages. There's no wind to deal
with, and since I hand-picked my subjects out of a display case, they were all
in pristine condition. The best part is that my commute to the
"location" is just a few steps away into the next room.
With the proper lighting, I was able to simulate many of the
effects I do outdoors. But, I soon realized that this was the perfect
opportunity to try something new – something that I wouldn't be able to do
outdoors. I began experimenting with flashlights. Surefire has a huge line of
specialty lights and accessories. With prices ranging from $60 to over $600,
they're definitely not cheap, but they’re extremely powerful and can be
outfitted with colored bezels for a variety of creative purposes.
For the chrysanthemum, I did just the opposite. The blue backlight was created by a flashlight outfitted with a blue bezel set up directly under it. I hand-held another (bezel-less) flashlight to create a strong, “white-light” sidelight on the tops of the petals.
It’s much easier to use a remote release and avoid looking through the camera when taking these types of shots. It’s very difficult to see which parts of the flowers are being lit up by the hand-held flashlight in the viewfinder. It’s also harder to judge its intensity. A minor change in the angle can make a huge difference, which is much easier to see with your naked eyes.
The red rose was shot on a mirror. One flashlight was placed in the rear in the upper left, and another was positioned in front on the lower right giving me a “cross-lighting” effect. Shooting on a mirror does have its challenges. If you want a black background, everything it reflects needs to be blacked out – which can be quite difficult if the mirror is very large. I found it easier to work with by placing it on the floor, flush up against a flat wall. That way, I only needed to tape a black cloth to the wall to get a solid black background. Another problem was dust – a mirror seems to attract it like a magnet. No matter how many times I brushed it away, another speck would appear just when I was ready to shoot. However, these minor issues can easily be fixed in post.
These are just a few of the things you can do indoors. If you have a full-fledged studio with bigger lights and different backgrounds, the creative possibilities are virtually unlimited. I still prefer to be outdoors, but when that’s not possible, indoor shooting is the next best thing.
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